Places I’d Rather Not Step

Times change; street names follow. In 1980 I resided in Jersey City, NJ. The main north-south thoroughfare had been known as “Boulevard” for decades before it was changed to “John F. Kennedy Boulevard” in the 1960s. Similarly, Jackson Avenue was renamed Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue in the 1970s. These changes honored and continue to honor American heroes.

Street names in Taiwan changed when Japanese colonizers were replaced by Chinese Nationalist colonizers in the 1940s. Main roads in most towns and cities were changed to honor the Father of the Republic of China, Dr. Sun Yat-sen, and the dictator-in-charge at the time, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek. Other roads were given names of the governing principles of the Nationalist Party and provinces in China. In Kaohsiung one was given the dethroned name for Beijing, “Peiping”. 

1618886A few years ago a friend found some old maps of Tainan City, where I was living. They indicated that, before renaming, one narrow twisty lane that ran along the back sides of buildings facing two wider roads and following a drainage ditch had been called “Canine Excretia Lane”. (Taiwanese is an earthy language. You can imagine a better translation.) The next day I went out to find it.  It’s still there. I’d even wandered along it in years past. By 2017 it had a number instead of a name. At its far end I noticed that it seemed to continue as a dead-end alley between two buildings across a road. As I entered that part, I met a man on his way out. He asked what I was looking for, and when I told him, he said, “No, that’s on the other side of the road. This is NOT that.” 

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A week ago in a Colorado state park, I went past a sign at the division between two trails. The one I didn’t take let through “Rattlesnake Gulch”.   I don’t want to step into that any more than Canine Excretia.  

 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan.

Back to Taiwan… Kind of…

We went to see the movie, The Farewell. Though it’s set in China and mostly in Mandarin with subtitles, much of it felt like being in Taiwan again. 

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Characters looked like people we’ve known in there, especially Taiwan residents whose roots go to Northern China.  Settings in China looked like some of the grungier parts of Taiwan cities, but that’s because it’s set in grungier parts of Chinese cities. The urban congestion was real, and people acted like people at home. A large part of the movie takes place at a wedding feast, and we could identify having been to feasts that were much the same.

In one scene, a character who is about 30 years old, who had grown up since age 6 in America, converses with her eldest uncle in Chinese. Familiar with how Mandarin sounds, we were able to catch the humor in how badly the character spoke it. 

We can’t pretend to have “listened” to the dialog instead of reading the subtitles, but having both together demonstrated how well the translators had interpreted the Chinese into clear and accurate English. 

Should this movie come near to you, as it did to us, and you are missing Taiwan, as we are, we’d recommend it. The trailer is on YouTube at: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RofpAjqwMa8

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan

Giving myself a Birthday Present

I was only 30 and Char was 28 when we began to learn Taiwanese in 1982. Most of our teachers were younger than us. They had grown up in an environment where they were encouraged, as “good girls” to operate only in Mandarin. They could understand and speak Taiwanese, but they didn’t know a lot of it. For example: if we asked how to say something like  “tadpole” in Taiwanese, we’d hear back, “I’ll ask my mother tonight and tell you tomorrow.” Two or three of these women were city girls, but one had a rural background. Her mother had been a rich man’s “country girl”, and had never married him. Our teacher didn’t even know her real birthday. One had been estimated for identification purposes; it was close enough. In the village that she called home people were more likely to remember the phase of the moon during which a new baby arrived than the particular day. Birthday presents were still not common. Over the years of our residence in Taiwan, birthday cards, then birthday cakes, and eventually a birthday meal in a nice restaurant became ordinary. It’s still not common to wrap up a gift.  

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Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

A few days ago was my 68th birthday. I received cards in the mail and a very pleasant birthday meal the day before. On the day itself we were on the train. The train has no wi-fi west of Chicago, so my computer was used almost exclusively for listening to a lot of Bruce Springsteen music. It’s hard to imagine a better birthday than being on a train across Iowa and Illinois while listening to “The Boss.” But, I did find something to improve it. In Chicago’s Union Station between trains and having wi-fi for a few hours, I opened my Twitter account and posted a note that I wouldn’t be back until November 1st. Then I opened Khan Academy (an online education thing where I mainly respond to questions in the Arts and Humanities courses) and deleted automatic logins to those places. I dropped a note to a woman named Polina who has recently started answering questions in those courses, telling her that she’d have the whole thing to herself until November. I added that I admire the kindness that she always shows in her responses (something I sometimes neglect). 

Having given myself that gift on my birthday, the next morning I had very little to do online. It felt weird and liberating, both at the same time. At a lunch with friends I was seated across the table from a friend about my age. When I mentioned what I’ve done, he said that about a year ago he had stopped reading news stories past their headlines. He feels current enough on what’s happening just through what he was reading now, and says he’s now more relaxed than before.  Even our local public radio station was helpful. The Fall Pledge Drive just began. They spend as much time asking for money as giving news during these drives. Since we already pledge generously, there’s little reason to listen at all until next week.  

On November 1st I’ll open things up again. Who knows, maybe by November 11th, Veterans’ Day, I’ll give myself another present.

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan.

A Festival of Booths

Night markets are a popular recreation in Taiwan. Entire streets are lined with booths and stands from which all manner of things, especially foods, may be sold. A good night market, like the one next door to the Carrefour store in Chia-yi, will have games, auctions, low-level gambling, auctions, clothing, and LOTS of different things to eat. Schools with long histories will celebrate “founders’ day” or something like that with fairs at which different classes set up booths or stands where snack foods are available. When I taught translation classes at Aletheia University in Moa-tao Taiwan, I used to let the class pick the topic for the midterm. (I’d make an audio program that they’d hear, line by line, through headphones, and give their translation, also line by line, onto a tape recording.) When I’d ask for ideas, almost every semester, both for the the mid-term and final exams, they’d ask for “the Night Market”. By the end of my time there, I’d open the session in which we chose the topic by saying, “What topic would you like. The class gets to choose. Anything but “the night market.”  

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The object of night markets or school fairs is to bring in money.  I felt kind of at home one recent Saturday when, on a visit to Boulder, Colorado, we walked through an open-air fair on Pearl Street that was ostensibly about arts and crafts.  The “vibe” of Boulder being what it is, we were assured that the costume jewelry that looked like thin slices of fruit was “all natural and varnished in all natural tree sap.” At a Taiwan night market, such items would all be plastic wrapped in plastic. 

Other things felt like home EXCEPT: all of the booths were uniform size white canvas tents; all of the merchandise was really nice stuff; and all of the performances were musical. A young woman with a ukelele was serenading passersby; and a man in an African mask with a sonorous set of drums kept the rhythm going (I dropped a handful of coins into his box.); the local Suzuki music school kids were playing violins in unison. A non-musical performance was by a man in a kilt who wove tartan cloth at his hand loom. There was food, too,  but unlike in Taiwan it was all at one end of the street, a couple of taco trucks and something else. 

If you’re in the market for a wooden bow tie, all-natural costume jewelry or furniture made from 6-inch-thick old barn beams, Boulder’s arts and crafts fair is a great place to go. And whether you’re looking for something or not, it’s a wonderful way to pass a Saturday morning. But if you want to eat, nothing’s better than a Taiwan night market. 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan.

The Neglected Cord

A couple years back in Tainan I had a project in mind that involved linking two pieces of electronic equipment. Neither piece was at hand as I entered a shop to purchase a cord, but as I was on my way  and wanted to start that evening, I bought a short green one that “seemed right” to me. It takes little guessing to figure out what I discovered once I arrived home. 

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Somehow that cord came with us in our luggage when we retired and left Taiwan in 2018. It may have been because having overspent on I didn’t want to just throw it away without taking another chance. In this case, the results turned out better. Soon after settling in I found an old flip phone and went to have it activated. I brought the phone along, and the kind salesman reminded me that I also needed a battery and the means for charging, a block and a cord. I bought the battery and block, but remembered my green cord and thought to give it that chance. In that, I was half right. The cord fit, but the several charging blocks in the drawer would have done just as well as the new one I bought. 

This summer I acquired a cast off “Nook” electronic reader. It came with a long white cord, but no charging block. No bother. My phone’s block and those other spare ones work quite well. The green cord fits it, too. I charged both devices fully last week before we went away for a 5-day weekend. As I packed, I recalled that my wife always carries the charging block and cord for her smartphone. I figured that the interchangeability of those things for MY devices would also apply to hers. Without saying anything, I left my own block and cord behind. When we boarded homeward bound train on Sunday evening, the Nook wouldn’t boot up. I asked to borrow the things I had “cleverly” avoided having to carry. They were courteously offered to me. It was THEN that I discovered a mismatch with my equipment. A while later a strange tone emitted from my pocket. It was my phone informing one and all that it was in need of a charge. So THAT got turned off. 

Free of Nook, phone, cord, charging block and attendant nonsense, I spent the trip listening to Bruce Springsteen music that was on my computer. Maybe the best thing I did all day. 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan.

Mixed Messages

Earlier this year, a man with political opinions differing from those of the current President of the United States vented some frustrations by using his graphic designer skills. He mocked up a presidential seal by swapping a Russian two-headed eagle for the American single-headed one, and putting golf clubs in the place of the olive branch. He also reworded the motto and changed it from Latin to Spanish. He marketed this seal as a gag gift. This was not a flag burning, so even though we may not appreciate the joke, Americans have to support his right to do it.

Last summer the president spoke at an event hosted by a conservative political organization. His remarks were not made at from a lectern, but standing on a stage. A staff member of the organization arranged for an image of the presidential seal to be projected on the wall beside him. But in setting things up, he or she failed to look closely at the image found on a google search. The result was an interesting juxtaposition of the President and a sign that mocked him. You can read about it at: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/26/business/media/fake-presidential-seal-trump.html

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This brings us to Taiwan, which lost another ally last week. Years ago the government of China and the government of Taiwan began playing a game called, “No, you can’t have both.” A nation which has formal diplomatic ties with China cannot have an “embassy” of Taiwan, but merely a “Trade and Cultural Office” or something of the sort. Taiwan has many such offices around the world, but few embassies. Last week, the Solomon Islands (home to Guadalcanal of WWII fame) switched. In response, diplomats like Taiwan’s “unofficial ambassador” in the USA made speeches. The report in the Taiwan News https://www.taiwannews.com.tw/en/news/3772930 was accompanied by a stock photo of Stanley Kao (高碩泰) speaking to a group while standing in front of the flag that Taiwan uses in international situations. The photo sent almost the right message. Diplomat and flag both well represented. But because the lectern at which he stood had paint peeling off of it, the appearance was of shabbiness.

As early as 1944, economic leaders of the governments in Western Europe and North America began meeting to devise systems to regulate trade and monetary systems in the wake of the war that was going on at the time. The agreements forged then, in a conference at the Bretton Woods Hotel in America, have been regularly supplemented and updated since. Regular conferences are held at hotels and conference centers to decide things, and each ends with a declaration named for the location at which it was negotiated. Hotel names are often used for the declarations. None are named for the Holiday Inn or the Best Western. Hotel based conference centers come equipped with all the things needed for meetings, including lecterns, often prominently displaying the venue’s name. A google search for images of lecterns and podiums will quickly yield several pictures bearing hotel logos. That can sometimes be a problem, especially when the image one wishes to project when speaking is not necessarily that of a NASCAR driver.

Across my years in Taiwan, I attended many meetings and heard many speeches from flower-decked podiums. Only rarely has much attention been paid to the appearance or condition of the podium itself. In 1982 at an event at a government-run guesthouse, the speaker wanted a podium to hold his speaking notes. The highest thing there was a table at which he could sit. It was early on a Sunday morning. The speaker wanted to stand, but and the person with the key to the room where the guest house’s lectern was kept had the day off. Someone got into a janitor’s closet and found a mop bucket, which was inverted and covered with a dirty dish towel. The visual appearance detracted from the quality of the words spoken on that occasion.

Sometime in the 90s I visited a local Toastmasters club meeting at a big hotel in Kaohsiung. I was impressed by the quality of the speakers and the the club’s regard for the method promoted by the organization. What DIDN’T impress me was hotel’s lectern. The microphone was on a wobbly stand that shook and sent crackles through the room whenever a speaker so much as touched the table.

Between 2011 and 2015 I was an adjunct lecturer at the southern campus of a private university headquartered “up north”. I attended graduation ceremonies a few times. The podium they used was high and wide. It was on wheels for convenient rolling onto and off of the stage as needed. When not needed, it stood in the wings of the stage. Apparently nobody at the university was responsible to maintain it. Seated with faculty in the front row, I could see how dirty and dented it had become over the years. From year to year, I noticed, its condition declined.

Once, on retreat at a facility that had once served as a Bible college in central Taiwan, I began reading the words embossed on the front of the pulpit and comparing them to the words carved into a nearby communion table. Each phrase was a statement about Jesus; each was taken from the Bible. In one of them, the pronoun was “I”, in the other “He”. No matter WHAT anyone standing behind either of them may have spoken, an interesting conversation was going on in that room.

Back to the ambassador’s lectern and the President’s seal. These guys don’t have to carry their own furniture around with them. They have every right to expect that the venues at which they deliver remarks to be free of distractions that will detract from what they attempt to say. Someone has to pay attention. If not someone on the venue’s staff, then someone on their own.

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan.

Railroad Crossing, Look Out for the Cars…

Did you hear this one as a kid? “Railroad crossing, look out for the cars, can you spell that without any Rs?”  The answer was, of course “t-h-a-t.” I fell for it once. So, apparently, had other folks upon whom I tried it. But their falls had preceded mine, so I never got to be the clever one. 

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After residing in Kaohsiung for 25 years, near enough to the harbor to hear ships’ horns if the wind was in the right direction, we moved to Tainan, and were only about 150 meters from the mainline train tracks and a level crossing. But, unless we were waiting for a train to pass, we almost never heard the whistle (or horn) sound. It wasn’t because the engineers didn’t blast on the thing, just that it wasn’t much louder than something on a dump truck. And besides, between our little house and those tracks there was a phalanx of 8 to 10 floor buildings to block almost everything from that direction.  The trains, themselves, were all electric so didn’t roar. 

That level crossing was annoying, though. From about 6 in the morning to 11 at night there were at least four trains an hour, and that number would increase to as many as 10 or 12 during rush hours. Though the line carried both passenger and freight traffic, the latter had ceased to have much of a presence sometime in the 1990s. 

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Not so our current location. There are tracks about 400 meters away. They are owned by the mighty CSX railroad, but there are no more than 5 or 6 trains most days, and on others only 2. Those are the daily Amtrak trains to and from Chicago. There’s another big difference from Taiwan. The horns are  much, much louder, and there are many more level crossings where they are blown, about 10 within earshot of our place. The locomotives are monster diesel-electric things that look as if they could easily swallow those used in Taiwan. Some freight trains have as many as 3 locomotives drawing 120 cars of coal all the way from Wyoming to the power plant 20 miles from here. Whichever direction THOSE ones go, and whether they are loaded or empty, they can tie up traffic for up to 10 minutes.  

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As a kid in Los Angeles, I delighted in seeing trains. They ceased to fascinate me in my 50s, when I commuted from Kaohsiung to Tainan for work 5 days a week. I came to merely note their presence there. Now when I hear a horn, unless it’s Amtrak on its way to or home from Chicago, I dread whatever’s coming. 

 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years  in Taiwan.

 

Referral

256px-Chunghwa_Telecom_1st_logo_on_its_headquarters_park_maingateWhen we took up residence in Taiwan in 1982 we wanted a telephone. I went to the phone company with my newly issued Alien Resident Certificate, a name chop, and lots of money in my pocket. As best I could, I filled out forms, but all was put on hold because I didn’t know the number of the telephone pole nearest to the apartment that I’d rented. 

A bit frustrated, I asked a friend from church for help. He got out the church directory, called a member whose daughter-in-law worked at the phone company, learned her extension and called her at her desk.  She apparently told him to whom to speak, and all things were arranged without me having to go back to complete any more applications. My friend wondered why I hadn’t asked him first. 

Of course, Taiwan changed. Within 10 years all the old “dial” phones had been replaced with touch tone ones. Within fifteen years, if my phone didn’t work for some reason, all I had to do was call a 3 digit number from any other phone and key in mine. A repair person would show up the next day.  Early in the 21st century people were all on “hand machines” (cell phones). It was hard to keep up.

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Another change had little to do with phones, at first. When wanting to get around town by taxi, all one needed to do in Kaohsiung was step to  the edge of the street and wave a hand. A cruising cab would stop and you’d hop in. Eventually radio dispatch replaced the wave of a hand, so you’d phone and be told, “Cab number 123 in 6 minutes.” that’s gone cell phone, too. Getting a cab is now done via an icon on your phone screen.   It was getting hard for me to stay current. 

Having left Taiwan and purchased a house in Holland, MI, I’ve encountered no need for taxis, but an occasional home repair service. In my pre-digital understanding, one accessed such workers in the Yellow Pages or from an ad in the newspaper. Of course, now that I’m “digital”, I considered something like Craigslist, Angies list or HomeAdvisor.com. So I asked a friend at church. Worked really well, too. 

Maybe learning America means remembering how Taiwan used to be. 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan

 

高雄市前金區文武二街

For 20 of our 25 years in the city of Kaohsiung, we lived in the same building, renting a flat on the 2nd floor from 1987 to 1992, and then another, larger one, on the 6th floor from 1992 to 2007. It had once been an elegant location with about 44 flats and 3 or four shops on the ground floor street side. It was  of cast concrete with brick interior walls sometime in the mid to late 1960s. There was limited basement parking for cars and motorbikes, two elevators, a large open central courtyard, and a live in superintendent.                                                                    

wen wu stBy the time we moved in, much of the elegance had faded. But it had an excellent location near to the Central Park and convenient shopping, Our daughter grew up there from the time she was 2 years old until she went away to college. Our son was born while we lived there, leaving when he was 16; 

Being made of cast concrete, the exterior walls were plastered and tiled over. The floors were covered either with some sort of tile or, in living and bedrooms, with wooden parquet tiles. All ceilings were plywood covered with wallpaper, and in many places there was inset lighting. Only when someone remodeled did we get glimpses of the rough underside of the floors above. And they were rough.

We’ve recently gotten a peek at the underside of the upper floor of the house we bought in Holland, Michigan last year. Unlike our “modern” place in Kaohsiung, this one was built in 1925. It is wood framed and plastered. The outside is stucco, and the interior walls are “lath and plaster”.  We had assumed that to be true of the ceilings, too. The one in the kitchen began to come loose a few months ago when road construction nearby repeatedly shook the house. I put it back up with screws and braces and left it looking ugly. Our thought was to wait until the construction finished, then hire someone to replace it.  Then a construction workers strike intervened. We’ve been watching more sagging. Little bits of plaster fall to the floor from time to time. 

hole in ceiling 2Today I stood on a ladder and pulled down loose bits. Through the smaller holes from earlier, I’d imagined lath and plaster up there. I’d even watched YouTube videos on what kind of repair work might be needed. But today, opening about a square foot of ceiling to see up to the bottom of the floor above,  I learned that I’d been wrong, Wrong, WRONG. The ceiling is certainly the original one, but it’s not lath and plaster. It is some sort of 1925 drywall covered with finish layers of plaster. What is above it is the underside of the floor of the bathroom above which appears to be lath and plaster (go figure). 

That means several things, one of which is that the old ceiling will be easy to remove when the time comes. It also means that I shouldn’t just guess at stuff, now that I own the place where I reside.   I’ve asked friends to recommend home repair services. Tomorrow I’ll have to start phoning. 

 

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan

 

Back to Bells

A common thing for a church in Taiwan is to offer music instruction, playing the recorder, as a community service. Most children get recorder classes in elementary school. Some parents want to give a head start, or continued practice, or just to get kids out of the house for an hour on Saturday night. Churches offer the instruction as a non-threatening way to get people into the building and connected with some members in a non-religious activity.  They don’t overload the program with hymns or sacred stuff,. It’s mainly about doing fun stuff that leads to more challenging things. 

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About 20 years ago, a small and dying church in a Hakka village up north got a new pastor. It was a dismal situation.  Such farming as happened there was not a high earner, but the people owned their homes, so had no reason to move away. It was grandparents and their grandkids.Parents were in other places earning better wages. Aside from school there was nothing for kids to do. 

The newly arrived pastor organized recorder classes and a band. He sold the idea to the church members as not costing them anything. He sold the idea to the village as absolutely not religious. He kept his promises. When the kids got better at music he organized concert trips to city venues where his theological college graduates were pastors. Though held at churches, the concerts weren’t religious. The grandparents let the kids go, just to give them an experience of a trip outside. As time went on, the church became a sort of community center, the pastor a kind of local social worker, and suspicions were diminished. Baptisms and Church Attendance didn’t improve until many years later.

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That community youth recorder band did a Saturday night concert at our church in Tainan once, and afterwards our own parish’s recorder program added an adult division. I joined, carrying my instrument and music in a bag to practice every Saturday evening. I was in it for about 6 years before we retired. Now I no longer play the recorder, but I did join a Handbell Choir here. Practices for the fall season began on September 4. I went, but didn’t have to carry my bells with me.  Happy about that, because bells are heavier than a recorder.  

David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan

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