Pope John XX (sometimes XXI because the numbering gets confused), a Portuguese scholar trained in France who taught Medicine in Italy before becoming the pontiff during a time of political crisis in the church, found peace in intellectual pursuits. After being enthroned in 1276 he ordered the construction of a private study at the papal palace in Viterbo for study and scholarly work. You might say that he had a man cave added on. But he didn’t enjoy it for long. In 1277 the plaster ceiling collapsed with him under it. He died from injuries on May 20 that year.
Every apartment or house in which we dwelt during our decades in Taiwan had cracks in the walls. Construction there is done with brick, concrete and steel. Buildings are somewhat flexible, partly to cope with the shaky region of the earth’s crust upon which Taiwan sits. Taiwan’s people don’t feel more than a few earthquakes a year, seismometers all over the nation pick up more than 20 temblors every month. When felt, they become “news”. When someone gets hurt, they become headlines.

Returning to Pope John and why he matters in the here and now. There’s been a lot of construction on the street near our retirement home in Holland, MI. Underground water, sewer and storm drain infrastructure has been replaced. The sidewalks and curbs and street pavement disappeared in May. Now if you walk, you traverse neighbors’ lawns. If you drive, it’s in over sand which has been ground to dust. Some processes of doing the work while homeowners and renters get into and out of driveways have occasionally involved use of vibrating compactors. Our whole house has been shaken again and again. That didn’t sit well with the plaster ceiling in the kitchen, which first cracked, then began to come loose from the lath above it.
As I write there are chunks missing. Peering up through the holes makes it apparent that lath has come loose from rafters. This might be the result of past water damage from bathroom overflows upstairs. Or, it could be that the nails put there in 1925 to hold things up have, like me, retired.
Unlike Pope John XX, I’m not a scholar. That kitchen is neither my study nor my man cave. But getting a beer from the fridge has begun to feel pontifical.
David Alexander resides in Holland, MI after 39 years in Taiwan










